Bra Doctor Blog » Bra Fitting Problems

The Mystery of Underwire

admin — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:50 +0000

So many bras these days are constructed with underwire, that women are becoming increasingly convinced that all bras should have an underwire. But then, why would most companies still offer several non-underwire options to their customers? I’m going to help solve the mystery of what an underwire actually does for you.

Let me start with one of the basic principles of bra fitting (you can see my other blogs on this by clicking here). When your bra fits properly, the underwire should contour all of your breast tissue (from under your arms to where your cleavage resides) and lay flat against your breastbone in the front, without constraining your breasts or rubbing against your skin.

Dahlia bra and panty set by Valisère (Triumph). Size range: 34-40, D-DD cups. Available at Now That's Lingerie.com.

The purpose of an underwire is to contour the natural shape of your breast by encompassing the entirety of your breast tissue and giving it lift and a round shape. When encased in those cups, your breasts will only be supported to the extent that the fabric of your cup covers your breasts. For example, let me compare two distinct types of underwire bras. If you’re wearing a padded push-up bra (most of which offer only minimal support), you are getting less support than if you were wearing a full cup minimizer (intended to deliver the utmost support). But both bras have underwire. So what determines this difference in support levels?

For any bra, the straps, elasticated back band, fabric, stitching, underwire and coverage all work together to play a crucial role in perfecting your comfort. The majority of the support of a properly fitted bra lies in the elasticity (or firmness) of the fabric of your cups, plus the stitching (if any) on or along the cups. (The reason I emphasize properly fitted is because, if your bra doesn’t fit, it doesn’t matter what style you’re wearing– you will not be get the support that the physics of your bra intended! Click for more of my blogs on bra fitting.) So, if your bra cups only cover half of your boobs (like in a demi-cup or demi-bust bra), then chances are, your bra won’t give you as much support as a full-coverage bra– regardless of whether there is or isn’t an underwire. This also means that a bra with a stretchier fabric on the cups will support your breasts less than a bra made with a sturdier, less extensible fabric.

So that’s part of understanding what underwire can do for you. Before I continue, I want to make something clear. Just because you may prefer to wear non-underwire bras does NOT mean you are getting less support than a woman who wears underwire. Many non-underwire bras are equipped with a supportive elasticated band around the torso and have seams that are stitched internally in such a way as to provide shape and support. Full support bras DO exist without underwire and their support can be comparable to that of an underwire bra. The major difference is that the shape of your breasts will sometimes be different in either type of bra. You see, underwire works to envelop the entirety of your breast tissue, from beneath your arms and below your breast, bringing their weight closer to the front and slightly lifted upwards. Some non-underwire bras may constrain the breast tissue nearer to your body, but this may make your breasts seem smaller, especially since your breasts will seem less separated from each other than if there was an underwire contouring each breast.

The Vintage Touch wire-free bra by Warner's offers a naturally rounded fit and unparallelled comfort. Available at Now That's Lingerie.com

So what have you learned? Properly fitted, underwire bras help give you a more precise fit while supporting your breasts, but what more fully determines the support level are the fabric (and stitching) of your bra cups (more on this in a subsequent blog!). All these aspects (and more, like the strap’s width) work together to provide support. For women who do not like underwire bras and find them uncomfortable, don’t fret– there is still a wide range of non-underwired bras available for your comfort and convenience.

For all your bra fitting questions… contact me at celinethebradoctor@nowthatslingerie.com! I hear from dozens of women every week with a wide range of bra fitting issues, and I respond to them personally. So don’t hesitate or wait to feel comfortable in your bras.

See you next time!
Your Bra Doctor
bradoctor@nowthatslingerie.com

Nurture Your Nature! Fashion fixes for uneven breasts

admin — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:37:37 +0000

Even out your asymmetrical breasts with some quick tricks…

Welcome back! Today I’d like to cover one of the most common questions asked by women I’ve personally fitted for bras: what do you do when your breasts are not the same size?

Well, believe it or not, most women have at least a slight size difference. I have rarely seen women with two breasts that are exactly the same size. As if bra fitting weren’t complicated enough, right? Different women may have asymmetrical breast sizes for different reasons. Unfortunately, most women don’t know what to do for this manageable issue, so end up wearing bras that are not the right size and are uncomfortable for them. Here are some tips to help you achieve your most comfortable fit so you can look and feel great in your bras!

Bra cups are too small, & should NEVER constrain your breasts.

Over the course of her lifetime, a woman’s bra size can change more than five times. For many developing women, this is also the time when one’s breasts may not grow at the exact same rate, sometimes leaving one side noticeably bigger than the other. Factor in body changes resulting from pregnancy, breast feeding, weight gain or loss, medication, surgery and just age, and it’s easy to see how the shape of your breasts changes over time. You should always make sure your bras fit you and are comfortable, because if they aren’t, then you definitely are not wearing the right size or style bra for your unique body shape.

This brings me to one of the most important rules of bra fitting: if your breasts are different sizes, your bra should fit comfortably over the larger (not smaller) breast. The cup on the larger side should fit the entirety of your breast tissue without cutting into you. Sure, there may be a gap or a pleat in the cup where the smaller breast resides, but you can fill the space with a bra pad. This way, the underwire will not constrain your larger breast. NEVER, EVER buy a bra that fits only the smaller side comfortably, while the larger breast spills over the fabric of the cup or is constrained in any way by underwire or elastics.

Bra cups too big. Fabric should lie flat against the breast tissue.

So what are some available solutions to making your breasts look naturally even? For starters, wearing a bra that at least has a lined cup will go a long way in making both sides look more similar. It won’t help to just wear a bra that is very padded (keep in mind this will also make both sides seem larger, but the size difference will remain the same). You can try wearing a bra that has removable pads or removable cookies; by taking them out of the larger side and inserting them into the bra pockets in the smaller cup, you help even out the difference. This is usually a perfect little trick if your breasts are just slightly uneven in size, but if there is still a noticeable discrepancy, you might want to try to use other pads in addition to the removable cookies.

Silicone or foam pads, when added to the smaller side of your bra, can fill out the remaining gaps or spaces in your bra cup. But if this is your plan, it would be best to use them in a lined bra or padded bra (which exist both with or without underwire), so any slight demarcations of the pad inside your bra will be minimized. If you have a more noticeable difference in the symmetry of your breasts (close to a cup size, for example), Add-A-Size bra pads are definitely worth a try, either in silicone (see Glam silicone pads) or fabric with foam (see Add-A-Size pads). And if you’ve had a mastectomy, Add-A-Size pads will help fill out the difference as well.

Fashion Essentials Glam silicone enhancers, available at Now That's Lingerie.com

Wire-free lined bra by Triumph, available at Now That's Lingerie.com

A few more tips before you go! If you decide to use silicone instead of foam, don’t use more than one silicone pad inside the cup on the smaller size, because it could look and feel heavier and bulkier than the other side (if you want to walk lopsided all day, be my guest!). Also, after inserting your bra pads, don’t forget to re-adjust your bra straps and back closure to ensure both sides look equal and you feel comfy.

Lastly– if you want more bra fitting help, contact me. I’ve fitted women of all sorts of shapes and sizes, and I can help you find out what best suits your personal needs. DO let me know if you have any comments or suggestions. I’d love to hear from all of you!

Sincerely, as always,

your Bra Doctor

Common Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions, Part 3: The Straps

admin — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 21:05:16 +0000

Hi again, ladies! Time for the final installment of the Top 3 Common Bra Fitting Problems. Don’t worry, there will be much more advice, discussion and lingerie fashion tips to come! So far, we’ve gone over the top fitting guidelines in terms of cup size and band size, and today we’re going to review how to fit your shoulder straps properly. Take a minute right now to check your straps. Do you feel them falling down your shoulders? Are your breasts supported properly by your bra? Do your straps create marks where they dig into your shoulders?

When you put on your bra and adjust the shoulder straps properly, you should be able to slip a finger underneath the strap and still feel that it is snug, but not too tight. A brand-new bra should be properly adjusted but still have enough room for the strap to be tightened over time as it stretches out with wash and wear. Also, you should always take a moment to re-adjust your straps after you wash your bra. Sometimes, fixing your straps even a little bit can make a huge difference in your daily comfort and in the way your clothes look over your bra!

I have fitted many women who had red marks on their shoulders from where their straps cut into them. In many cases, their breasts weren’t being supported adequately by their bra, so they felt it was necessary to adjust their straps tighter to feel their breasts were at the correct height, meaning the styles and level of support (e.g. medium support) they selected were not right for them. Many full support bras offer a wider strap (sometimes with an integrated shoulder cushion) that help prevent the straps from cutting into the shoulders under the weight of your breasts. If your bra fits well but the straps are simply not wide enough, there are a variety of shoulder cushions (e.g. silicone or foam) that can be discreetly placed beneath the strap of any bra to minimize discomfort. (To determine what support is right for you, consult one of my previous blogs.)

Other than ensuring that the bra you are wearing offers the correct support, it is also crucial to confirm that your bra is the right size! If your bra cups or back band size are too loose (i.e. too big), then you will feel the need to adjust your straps tighter in order to compensate for the looseness in other places. Don’t do this! When your cup size and band size are correct, they will distribute the weight of your breasts accordingly and minimize the heaviness on your shoulders.

What about the ladies at the other end of the spectrum, whose bra straps constantly slip down their shoulders? Many of the women I’ve seen with this problem fall into one of two categories. In the first, their shoulders naturally tend to slope downwards from the neck, preventing their straps from staying in one place. In the other case, their straps are already fully adjusted (at the maximum tightness) but the straps’ elastics are worn out, or the slide adjuster doesn’t offer enough leeway for adjustment.

If your shoulders have more of a downward slope to them, what can you do? This is a more common problem than you realize, which is why there are several options to help. The first is to try wearing your bra straps crossed in the back instead. Some bras already give you the option to wear it crossed or in a T-back (racer back) style. Or, you can purchase a tiny accessory that gathers your straps together in the back on any bra you choose, even if your straps are not crossable on their own. Your other option is to try out the shoulder cushions mentioned in the previous section. The silicone ones offer non-slip, all-day comfort and can be placed beneath any bra straps to help minimize the glide down your shoulders.
This adjustable hide-a-strap prevents your straps from falling and is ideal to convert ANY bra into a racer-back! Available in clear (transparent).

What if you fall into the latter category, and your straps are already adjusted fully but not giving you any support? Some straps consist only of a slide adjuster, meaning that you can adjust along the entire length of the strap. Other bras offer the slide adjuster only halfway along the strap, meaning that the other half of the strap is made of a fabric and cannot be adjusted. If you adjust your straps as tight as they can be, but they are still loose and falling off your shoulders, consider switching to a bra with a slide adjuster that can be tightened the whole length of the strap (and not just half of it). This way, when your straps stretch out over time, you can increasingly tighten them as you see fit.

I hope this has helped! Don’t forget to check out each of the guidelines on cup size, band size, and straps, because these three aspects work together to ensure your proper bra size and unique, comfortable fit. If you have any questions about bra fitting or lingerie fashion advice, I’d love to hear from you! Send me an e-mail at our contact page.

See you soon!
Celine
Bra Doctor

Common Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions, Part 2: The Back Band

admin — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 21:01:47 +0000

Welcome back, everyone. Thanks for tuning in for another one of my advice blogs!

Last time, I wrote about one of the most common bra fitting problems, the bra cup size. Today I will discuss the back band of your bra, and how to know if it’s properly adjusted or just not right for you. Always keep in mind that the back of your bra, the cups and the straps all work together to provide comfort and support. When one of these aspects isn’t fitting right, then the others probably won’t either. The majority of us take more than just one size or shape, depending on the bra company, the style of the bra (e.g. demi-bust, full coverage, etc.), the fabric they use, and so on. For instance, some 34B bras can fit more like a 36B, while others will fit more like a 34C, even within the same company! It’s not rocket science, but often it can seem just as complicated. Here’s some advice that I hope will guide you in your quest for your perfect fit.

When you first buy a bra, it is always best to adjust your bra either to the loosest hook in the back, or to the middle notch. NEVER buy a bra if you have to attach it to the tightest hook to feel adequately supported. Your bra band will stretch naturally with wash and wear, so you want to reserve the tighter hooks for later on. When you start off at the tightest hook from the get-go, you will be left with no room to make it fit more snugly when your bra’s elastic stretches out.

So, while you’re hooked at your middle or loosest notch in the back, the band should be aligned straight around your rib cage when your shoulder straps are comfortably adjusted. If too much flesh is spilling out around the sides, and you feel asphyxiated, then you need to increase the back band by a size. If your bra rides up in the back, or even in the front, then you need to decrease the band size accordingly. As a general rule of thumb, your bra should move with your body and not let you pop out of it as you go about your day!

I am constantly seeing women who are wearing a bra whose band size is too large, just because it was the only way for them to attain the right cup size. Let’s say you usually take a 38D but your back is too loose, while the cups fit just fine. To find your optimum size, you would need to increase the cup size while decreasing the band size. In this case, you should try a 36DD instead of a 38D, which will fit more snugly around your back while offering a large enough cup to encase all of your breast tissue.

Let’s try another example using the previous 36DD bra, but in this case, the back band is just a tiny bit too small, while the cups fit properly. Although you may be tempted to try a 38DD, you will find that the cup size of a 38DD will be bigger than the 36DD and your back band will be much too loose. Instead, you can try using a bra back extender, which is a small accessory that attaches directly to the back of your bra without needing to be sewn. This ingenious little device will give you more hooks to use with the back band so that you can adjust your bra (looser or tighter), according to your daily comfort. By attaching this extender to your 36DD bra, you are maintaining the correct cup size, while giving yourself some more wiggle room in the back.

Check back next time for the next installment of bra fitting advice when I’ll be discussing how to properly adjust your bra straps and why some types of straps are better than others. In the meantime, please contact me with any other fitting questions at: bradoctor@nowthatslingerie.com.

See you soon!

Celine

www.nowthatslingerie.com

Common Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions

admin — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:59:38 +0000

In my experience, more than 90% of women wear the wrong bra size. Sounds like a lot, doesn’t it? Many women also take several different sizes, depending on the shape, cut, make and fabric of the bra. To add to the confusion, most women are not entirely symmetrical, meaning the size of each of their breasts are not equal.

Your shape is unique, making it sometimes difficult to find bras that are made in standard sizes. Many large-scale lingerie stores do not have experienced salespeople to help you find your best personal fit. Today I offer you one of the most common bra fitting problems, with tips on how to fix it. Over the next few blogs, you will find a comprehensive guide on how to diagnose and solve each fitting problem, along with some images that will demonstrate the proper or incorrect fitting for bras.

But first… In a previous blog, I asked you to try on each of your bras and go through a checklist of items to see if your bras were the wrong size. It’s fun to do this with your girlfriends too, and they can help you see things you can’t. If it doesn’t fit, or if the elastic is stretched out, toss it. Ask yourself these questions when you try on each bra.

*Are you adjusting the back closure at the tightest hook but it’s still not supporting you?
*Does the back ride up in an inverse U-shape?
*Does the underwire cut into your breast tissue or under your arms?
*Do the cups ride up over your breasts when you lift up my arms?
*Is your breast tissue spilling out of your cups, or cutting into your breast even when you adjust the straps?
*Is there too much space inside of your bra cups that your breasts don’t fill?
*Are your straps adjusted to the tightest fit and are still falling down your shoulders?
*Do you feel constrained or not properly supported throughout the day?
*Is your back closure too tight, even at the loosest hooks, so that you find it hard to breathe or move?
*Is the elastic around the band worn and overextended?

One of the most common issues with bra fitting is the cup size. I have seen some women with red lines underneath their arms and breasts from where their too-small underwire dug into them painfully.

Time for a reality check. It’s normal to change sizes and shapes over time. If your bras don’t fit you, don’t keep buying the same size. I have actually met women who refused to wear D cups because in their minds, that was too big. Size doesn’t matter as long as you’re comfortable in your bra. Seriously. If you don’t like it, cut out the tags! It’s not worth walking around all day long in discomfort.

Adjust your straps until you can your index finger between them and your shoulders, and without them cutting into you or slipping off your shoulders. The bra cups should lie flat against your breasts without any bunching, spaces or overlap (otherwise known as Spill Mountain, which is super unattractive).

Your underwire should contour and envelop the entirety of your breast tissue under your arm, and against your ribcage and breastbone. Never, ever wear a bra if the underwire cuts into you, because it’s too small, and can cause you serious problems, like cutting off the circulation to the tissue that is being constrained. Start by increasing your cup size or finding a bra style that offers a wider and more flexible underwire.

Your girls should never slip out from your bra when you move around or lift up your arms (this can make for an embarrassing fashion mishap!). If they do, then your size is too big, so go down a cup, like from a C to a B, until the underwire fits more snugly.

Some women have come to me with their doctor’s advice not to wear underwire. If you’ve heard this before, know that it’s mostly because women typically wear bras too small for them, which can cut off circulation to the surrounding lymphatic areas. Since your body needs to clear itself of its toxins, it is necessary to ensure proper and natural circulation, and constraining your breasts may prohibit your body’s natural functioning. As long as you are wearing the right size, and your breasts are being supported but not squished, this should not be a problem.

Always remember that you should do self breast exams periodically, but these should never replace regular breast exams with your doctor. Click here to view images from the American Cancer Society on how to conduct a self breast exam.

Stay tuned for the next installment of Bra Fitting Problems, and discover more helpful tips to find your perfect fit!

Bra Doctor

What type of support is right for you?

admin — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:54:37 +0000

Ever wonder how to determine what kind of support your bra should be? Here are some quick and easy guidelines to find the proper level of support and comfort for your size, every day. (This doesn’t apply to specialty bras or lingerie you wear only for special occasions!)

Petites
If your bra size is an AA, A or B cup, chances are you are not looking for a full support bra. Your ideal support would be light or medium, depending on your level of daily activity. Padded and push-up bras typically offer a light support, but in general, serve mostly to enhance your breast size. If you are between a B and a C cup, check the next section.

B and C cups
Women who fall into this category require slightly more support for day-to-day activities. You can find comfort in a medium support bra, either with or without underwire, which will enable you to work and walk around without worrying about whether your breasts will continue moving when you stop. Bras that have a double layer of fabric (or mesh on the inside) will offer a medium to full support. If the cup covers the entirety of your breast tissue, you will have a more firm support. If you are wearing a demi-bust bra, either padded or non-padded, you will receive a medium support, which is great for moderate activity. For increased daily activity levels or for maximum comfort, see the next section.

Full cup, full support bras
If you take a C cup or higher, you will require a minimum of a medium support bra for everyday wear. If your work necessitates a lot of activity, you should opt for a fuller support, full-coverage bra. If you prefer padded bras, select one that has a square-cut neckline rather than a V-cut, since the former will support more of the breast tissue and provide more adequate coverage and support. For all other bras, make sure the fabric has some (but not too much) stretch to it, so that they will mould to your body shape while still offering support. You will find extra support for all bras with a vertical or diagonal seam on the cup, or those which have a double layer of fabric or mesh along the inside of the cup, and of course, those which cover the entirety of the breast tissue.

Plus-Size: DD cups and up
Women who fall in the DD and up size range usually want to be completely supported in their day-to-day activities, especially since this is the group of women most susceptible to back, neck and shoulder pain. Although most bras within the DD, E, F, G, H, I and J cup sizes are full support, some will also offer a minimizer effect, which will give fantastic support while reducing the appearance of having large breasts (many women prefer this, especially for work purposes). Strap width is also an important consideration, since a slightly wider strap will hold better on the shoulders and more equally distribute the weight of your breasts. IF your straps cut into your shoulders but you still do not feel supported, chances are you are not wearing the right size or shape for you.

For other bra fitting questions, or suggestions for Bra Doctor blog articles, please contact me at bradoctor@nowthatslingerie.com.