Common Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions

In my experience, more than 90% of women wear the wrong bra size. Sounds like a lot, doesn’t it? Many women also take several different sizes, depending on the shape, cut, make and fabric of the bra. To add to the confusion, most women are not entirely symmetrical, meaning the size of each of their breasts are not equal.

Your shape is unique, making it sometimes difficult to find bras that are made in standard sizes. Many large-scale lingerie stores do not have experienced salespeople to help you find your best personal fit. Today I offer you one of the most common bra fitting problems, with tips on how to fix it. Over the next few blogs, you will find a comprehensive guide on how to diagnose and solve each fitting problem, along with some images that will demonstrate the proper or incorrect fitting for bras.

But first… In a previous blog, I asked you to try on each of your bras and go through a checklist of items to see if your bras were the wrong size. It’s fun to do this with your girlfriends too, and they can help you see things you can’t. If it doesn’t fit, or if the elastic is stretched out, toss it. Ask yourself these questions when you try on each bra.

*Are you adjusting the back closure at the tightest hook but it’s still not supporting you?
*Does the back ride up in an inverse U-shape?
*Does the underwire cut into your breast tissue or under your arms?
*Do the cups ride up over your breasts when you lift up my arms?
*Is your breast tissue spilling out of your cups, or cutting into your breast even when you adjust the straps?
*Is there too much space inside of your bra cups that your breasts don’t fill?
*Are your straps adjusted to the tightest fit and are still falling down your shoulders?
*Do you feel constrained or not properly supported throughout the day?
*Is your back closure too tight, even at the loosest hooks, so that you find it hard to breathe or move?
*Is the elastic around the band worn and overextended?

One of the most common issues with bra fitting is the cup size. I have seen some women with red lines underneath their arms and breasts from where their too-small underwire dug into them painfully.

Time for a reality check. It’s normal to change sizes and shapes over time. If your bras don’t fit you, don’t keep buying the same size. I have actually met women who refused to wear D cups because in their minds, that was too big. Size doesn’t matter as long as you’re comfortable in your bra. Seriously. If you don’t like it, cut out the tags! It’s not worth walking around all day long in discomfort.

Adjust your straps until you can your index finger between them and your shoulders, and without them cutting into you or slipping off your shoulders. The bra cups should lie flat against your breasts without any bunching, spaces or overlap (otherwise known as Spill Mountain, which is super unattractive).

Your underwire should contour and envelop the entirety of your breast tissue under your arm, and against your ribcage and breastbone. Never, ever wear a bra if the underwire cuts into you, because it’s too small, and can cause you serious problems, like cutting off the circulation to the tissue that is being constrained. Start by increasing your cup size or finding a bra style that offers a wider and more flexible underwire.

Your girls should never slip out from your bra when you move around or lift up your arms (this can make for an embarrassing fashion mishap!). If they do, then your size is too big, so go down a cup, like from a C to a B, until the underwire fits more snugly.

Some women have come to me with their doctor’s advice not to wear underwire. If you’ve heard this before, know that it’s mostly because women typically wear bras too small for them, which can cut off circulation to the surrounding lymphatic areas. Since your body needs to clear itself of its toxins, it is necessary to ensure proper and natural circulation, and constraining your breasts may prohibit your body’s natural functioning. As long as you are wearing the right size, and your breasts are being supported but not squished, this should not be a problem.

Always remember that you should do self breast exams periodically, but these should never replace regular breast exams with your doctor. Click here to view images from the American Cancer Society on how to conduct a self breast exam.

Stay tuned for the next installment of Bra Fitting Problems, and discover more helpful tips to find your perfect fit!

Bra Doctor

9 Responses to Common Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions

  1. [...] me start with one of the basic principles of bra fitting (you can see my other blogs on this by clicking here).  When your bra fits properly, the underwire should contour all of your breast tissue (from under [...]

  2. [...] lingerie fashion tips to come! So far, we’ve gone over the top fitting guidelines in terms of cup size and band size, and today we’re going to review how to fit your shoulder straps properly. Take [...]

  3. [...] Common Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions [...]

  4. Cathy Fisher says:

    I’m small breasted & used to wear what they call Curves because my breasts are very small, but I do wear & measured at 34B, I’ve decided not to wear the curves anymore, because I’m not 52 yrs. old & making alot of changes in my life & I’m how god made me.
    I bought a Bra that is Fruit of the Loom & it has a little tiny bit of padding, believe not much, because that would defeat my purpose.
    Anyways, I tryed it on & it actually looks not only good, but more natural.
    The problem I’m having is the front wants to ride up & a friend of mine said to use the 3rd hooks & it still does it, I have tryed to up the straps & lower the straps & so far nothing is working.
    I do not need underwire, because like I said; “my breasts are very small(tiny)”. I’m 5’5 & weigh 116 lbs., so I’m a small frame body.

    Please help me, because I cannot take these back now, it is too late & I do like the way they make me look!

    Thank You;
    Cathy L. Fisher

  5. admin says:

    Hi Cathy,

    Thanks for your question! Let me try to sort through some of what you wrote to make sure I understand how best to help you.

    You say you are petite and want a natural-looking bustline, which you hope to achieve with a bra that is lightly lined and forms well to you but does not have an extra push-up inside, and you’re having trouble because your bra wants to ride up whenever you move.

    I suggest checking out my article on how to measure your bra size to get a rough estimate of your size, versus what you are wearing now. Then we can determine whether or not your main issue is that you are wearing too big a back band (which may be why it rides up when you attach your bra at the tightest clasps), or that your cup size is incorrect. A common problem for small-framed women is that they tend to wear back bands that are too large – keep in mind a new bra should feel snug (not asphyxiating) when you attach it at the loosest closure. Lots of women who wear 34 really wear 32 or 30 as a back band size, for example, because of lack of availability of certain styles in 32A, 32B and 32C and so forth, like in large department stores (which tend to stock the more common sizes) or other places they may shop at; as well as not having the right help or professional bra fitting to pinpoint the size.

    You also mentioned not “needing” underwire – of course you may always opt to wear a wire-free bra (here are some styles I recommend), but underwire doesn’t have to be uncomfortable (in fact, when you’re wearing a properly fitting bra, you shouldn’t even be able to remember you have a bra on!). Underwires are there to help shape your breast into the cup like a frame; wire-free bras have stitching or underwire-like soft structure to do this instead. The cup and back band then work to help support and shape you within the cup.

    You can send me an e-mail with the results of your measuring once you`re done, or write me a comment here and I will get back to you with more specific help if I can.

    Hope this helps! Have a great day and speak to you soon.
    Bra Doctor

  6. Janet Whittle says:

    I would like to know how to avoid my left breast from continually coming out of the cup, into the middle of my chest.
    The bra is underwired for the support as I have been measured at M&S as a 38F.
    What should I do? Buy a 40F or buy a 38G?
    Please help

  7. admin says:

    Great question, Janet, thanks. To help you I need to know a few things more specifically:

    -What kind of bra style do you wear? (full cup bras, lower-cut (balconette or demi bra) bras, etc.)
    -On which bra back closure hooks do you fasten your bra? (loosest, middle, tightest)
    -How do you adjust your bra straps (typically tightly or loosely)? Do your straps cut into your shoulders?
    -Is it always the same breast coming out of the cup?
    -When you raise your arms above your head, do your breasts slip out of the cups and the bottom of your bra (or are your breasts visible in the mirror along the bottom when your arms are lifted)?

    Let me know, and I would be happy to give you more specific bra fitting help. You may also email me at bradoctor@nowthatslingerie.com.

    Celine

  8. Kia Andrews says:

    I’ve been changing bra sizes every 6 months for about 4 years now. I was a 38c at first lost weight and changed to a 36c i started to notice the 36c not fitting properly it was loose around the band so i got fitted again at VS and she said i was a 34d i did not believe her because i didn’t think i was a d cup so she made my try on the 34d and it fitted great but i still didn’t believe her so she gave a 34c to try on i did and she came into the room and told me to bent over and my boobs almost pooped out so she said i for sure was a 34d 6 months after i wanted to get fitted again because i heard your supposed to go every 6 months so off i went to vs again to get fitted their was a different woman there not the same one i was used to and she looked young and she told me i was either a 34c or a 32d i got upset and told her i was here 6 months prior and i was told i was a 34d now i not sure if she is right or not because i don’t understand why i changed bra sizes all the time pretty soon i’ll be able to open a bra store up thats how many bras i have from changing sizes so often i even have many that have tags on them still and all of them are from VS i don’t know anymore my 34d still fits correctly so i don’t know if i should believe the fitter or just stay wearing a 34d i mean they still fit right. I’m just confused and tired of changing bra sizes and buying more bras

  9. admin says:

    Hi Kia,

    Bra fitting can be difficult! I can help you better (and personally) if you email me at bradoctor@nowthatslingerie.com.

    In order to find out your approximate bra size I need to know:

    1) where are you closing the back band?
    2) How tightly (or loosely) are you adjusting your straps?
    3) what style bra are you wearing? e.g. plunging, 3/4 coverage, etc.
    4) does the underwire in your bra completely encircle your breasts without causing bulges?
    5) when you lift up your arms does your bra stay in place or does it ride up in front or in back?

    You can also go to this page to see how to measure your bra size: http://www.nowthatslingerie.com/en/how-to-measure-your-bra-size.php

    It sounds like you are between a 32D and a 34D but your size will also depend on the brand you are purchasing. Note that your bra size can change often if you are losing weight, and even may fluctuate monthly depending on your menstruation cycle. And some brands and styles aren’t for everyone. Maybe you should try a different brand or bra style. I’d be happy to help via email or phone, toll-free 1-855-521-4244.

    Celine your Bra Doctor
    celine@nowthatslingerie.com

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